Red dyes in transition: investigating natural and synthetic colourants in Javanese batik textiles by HPLC-DAD-MS/MS and SERS
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heritage-09-00231.pdf
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4.96 MB
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Resource type
Journal article
Date published
2026
Abstract
Fifty-five batik textiles produced along coastal Java in the late 19th to early 20th century were analysed to study the red dyes and the cotton fabrics. Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy (SERS) classified the dyes into six groups and identified 70% of the samples as Morinda. High-Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with a diode array detector and tandem Mass Spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS) confirmed the SERS results and identified synthetic dyes in the remaining samples, which were used either alone or in mixtures with Morinda or indigo. Synthetic alizarin (C.I. 58000, Mordant Red 11) was the most frequently detected synthetic dye. Auramine O (C.I. 41000, Basic Yellow 2), fuchsin (C.I. 42510, Basic Violet 14), and rhodamine B (C.I. 45170, Basic Violet 10) were occasionally detected. The results also highlighted two possible types of Morinda and two variations of synthetic alizarin. The shades obtained from mixtures of natural and synthetic dyes were visually indistinguishable from those obtained with pure natural or synthetic dye, as confirmed by colourimetry. The variety of dyes and cotton fabrics shared across batik producers makes it challenging to attribute unsigned batiks to specific workshops. Nevertheless, this study demonstrated that synthetic dye uptake during this period was limited and experimental, with natural Morinda remaining the preferred choice despite the availability of European synthetic alternatives.
Journal title
Heritage
Publisher
MDPI AG
eISSN
2571-9408
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