The use of scientific analysis to reconstruct archaeological textiles from Dunhuang

Three textiles from the British Museum collection found at the site of Cave 17, Dunhuang, dating to the 8th - 9th century CE were studied to physically reconstruct them using original materials and weaving/dyeing techniques. Non-invasive analyses initially included digital microscopy, broadband multispectral imaging, fibre optic reflectance spectroscopy and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. Scanning electron microscopy coupled to energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy and high pressure liquid chromatography - diode array detector tandem mass spectrometry were then employed to identify the fibres, mordants and dyes. Dyes included sappanwood (Biancaea sappan), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), smoketree (Cotinus coggygria), Chinese cork tree (Phellodendron chinense), pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) and indigo. Turmeric (Curcuma longa) was identified for the first time in Dunhuang textiles. The identification of larkspur (Delphinium semibarbatum) also reinforced the Central Asian production of the samite textile in MAS.858. Identifying light sensitive dyes was key information in the reconstruction process.