Threads of War: Scientific Analysis of the Dyes, Fibres and Mordants Used in the Production of Afghan War Rugs
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heritage-09-00081.pdf
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11.76 MB
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Resource type
Journal article
Date published
2026
Abstract
So-called ‘war rugs’ started being produced in Afghanistan after the Soviet invasion in 1979. These textiles have sparked debate as symbols of resilience and political commentary but also as controversial commodification of human suffering. However, their manufacture and materiality have not been studied so far. In the framework of the British Museum exhibition “War rugs: Afghanistan’s knotted history”, a scientific investigation was conducted on nine rugs from the collection. Approximately 65 samples were analysed by optical microscopy (OM), scanning electron microscopy coupled to energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX) and high-pressure liquid chromatography coupled to diode array detector and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS) to study the fibres, mordants and dyes used in the production of the rugs. Scanning X-ray fluorescence (MA-XRF) and multiband imaging (MBI) were also used directly on the rugs to map the distribution of specific mordants and dyes, respectively. The results revealed the intentional use of white or dark wool as the substrate for dyeing, to obtain specific colour shades. A wide range of synthetic dyes was detected, including Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 88, Basic Green 4, Acid Blue 92, Acid Black 1 and Direct Black 38 in the earlier rugs, whereas Direct Yellow 1, Direct Brown 1, Direct Yellow 12, Acid Green 25, Acid Blue 113 and Direct Blue 15 were identified in the later rugs. Some synthetic dyes remained unidentified. Additionally, natural dyes were used in three rugs. An emodin-based colourant, possibly obtained from dock or sorrel (Rumex spp.), was detected in two light brown areas. A berberine-based colourant consistent with barberry (Berberis spp.) was detected in a yellow area. These results represent the first scientific study of these objects and enable preliminary insights into the details of this complex craft that has evolved from centuries of carpet making in this area.
Journal title
Heritage
Publisher
MDPI AG
eISSN
2571-9408
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